Lay out protective  cloth where the springs touch your workbench. After it dries it can be shot with matte clear to make sure it is not sticky and does not easily rub off. An extra sleeve is on the backside of some OEM bushings. Look for any factory inspection marks so that they can be documented and reproduced later. The driver’s side bars will have a 30 degree right hand twist.

The mechanical restoration of your front and rear suspension is crucial to a fully functional car that can be driven and enjoyed. Companies sell complete kits to rebuild your front suspension but they do not have the same appearance as the original MOOG parts. The lower control arm is vital to the operation of the front suspension.

The driver’s side bars will have a 30 degree right hand twist. So if you have the originals be sure to save them.

It isn’t, and because it has all original parts, you should try to save it. You can observe this preset by laying the bars down on a flat surface and observing how the bar is twisted. Coronet has good advice, the bars can go in any way, just have your adjusters unscrewed all the way, and wiggle the lower A frame to fit the bar in. Earlier lower control arms have the tab mounted farther out on the control arm and use a different style sway bar. You do not want to mar the newly finished surface. Home Forums > Classic Mopar Tech > Brakes, Steering & Suspension > Torsion Bars early B Body. Taking several pictures to document what you find helps you restore your car to its factory-original condition.

Wrap the nut and bolt with tape and tighten so as not to mar the finish. Most 1966–1970 Plymouth and Dodge B-Bodies left the factory with manual drum brakes.

The lower ball joint is held on by six castle nuts while the upper is held on by three castle nuts. Note the bolt inserted from the bottom up.

They can flash rust, so unless you are going to show in a high-level Original Equipment class the stainless replacements look good, keep a nice appearance, and last much longer. If you are using polyurethane bushings, all you have to do is lubricate the bushing with the supplied lube (a must if you do not want squeaks) and push the shaft into the bushing.

The driver’s side bars will have a 30 degree right hand twist. Another tool to purchase (or rent) is a tie-rod puller. The factory used a yellow inspection mark on the passenger-side assembly. Odd left ,even right, and this number is to be on the anchor end,(rear) taken direct from the good ole mopar parts book. This lower control arm in a 1970 B-Body has the real Cosmoline on the arm. They are black phosphate, not natural metal. Good shops can perform this rebuild; some are listed in the Source Guide at the back of this book. If you find a rusted retaining pin in the end of the lower strut rod end, carefully remove it without breaking it off. When everything is laid out with the wear pads and zinc liners in place, run the shaft through so that all parts are lined up. The right bar has one stripe and the left bar has two. Here is what you can find when you open up the brake drum. It pops right out. . When removing the dash it works well if you have about a 3-foot piece of heavy wire to support the dash after you remove the five dash bolts. A passenger side bar will have a 30 degree left handed twist. That tab is located near the ball joint stud hole on 1966–1969 B-Body cars. Slide on the complete, restored lower control arm assembly making sure to insert the strut rod and the lower control arm pivot at the same time.

These are the upper control arm bushings after removal with a cold chisel and a cut-off wheel. Moog parts are as close as you can get to original unless you find NOS examples. Take inventory of any missing, damaged, and worn part that must be replaced and add them to your “parts needed” list. Tighten the C-clamp and compress the entire assembly. Early master cylinders can be a single-reservoir style; all later ones had dual reservoirs.

The left bar has two stripes, one about 71 ⁄2 inches and the other about 10 inches from the front of the bar. Written by Mike Wilkins & Mike Wilkins and Posted with Permission of CarTechBooks.

You can see the way the pin was bent by the factory and the style of the original boots. Seymour’s stainless steel paint is a great match. Wheel cylinder, cross piece, spring, and wheel studs are all in good restorable condition.

The rotors and calipers are not reproduced in correct appearance. The process is the same with these individual units.

With or without the sleeve the same bushing is pressed in the arm.

Yes, there are differences and of course different date codes, but the design is basically the same. Make sure you have the right one by testing the direction they move when the adjuster cable is engaged. If you are going for a totally correct appearance know that the originals are not stainless. Two pump styles were used on these cars: Federal or Saginaw. You will use it many times. At least it is clean and complete. The first step is to press out the shaft from the lower control arm, leaving the rubber bushing in the arm. All rubber hoses must be replaced. The calipers were rebuilt. If yours are missing be prepared to search long and hard to find them. Their correct function is much more important than their appearance. A passenger side bar will have a 30 degree left handed twist. Even though a lot of pad is left on these shoes they must be replaced with new pads. Other than the sway bar mount positions, all the control arms interchange. If your springs are natural you can use Rust Preventive Magic and they never have to be painted. These almost never remain on the assembly and are not reproduced.

A novice may think it is time to put in the new bushing, but a closer look reveals that a metal sleeve is still in the control arm and another one is still on the pivot shaft.

Also, the shiniest end was likely in the front,as it was protected. Finish the lower ball joint, spindle, and attaching hardware. They also have identification marks made with light brown paint. And until the clip fits. If the bore is in good shape, use a hone to smooth the bore so you have a surface that seals when you reassemble the unit. Notice that on this car the upper arm is painted black. that was the front. Do not blast or paint the surface of the spindle where the bearings and rotor ride.

For a correct restoration use rubber and original MOOG replacement parts. The spring in the adjuster cable and the lower brake shoe spring are green, and the brake shoe hold-down spring, rod, and caps are clear zinc or cadmium plated. Correct finishes include orange upper springs. Don’t let the new nut and bolt that is from the stand fool you. All of the components were replaced with new except the brake adjuster with the star wheel.

Notice the lack of original part numbers on the cylinder. Missing from this nearly complete assembly are the cotter pins and caliper bolt clips. The steering column is longer than the one that is used with the power steering unit. Then have the rotor turned. Label them for installation.

Check out this article on how to add sway bars to Mopar cars, including the Dodge Challenger, Plymouth Road Runner, Dodge Dart, Dodge Coronet, Chrysler …

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After carefully blasting the rotor without blasting the surface where the pads contact the rotor you can paint it with a dark cast color.

But it will and is just held in the cylinder with an O-ring.

Make sure the leaves have an extra hole in the front and one in back. The reason for the different location of the tab is that in 1970 the sway bar configuration changed. The teeth must be compressed so that the cable can be removed from the backing plate. Mopar torsion bars are preset at the factory in the direction of use. a little tight is normal, get the bar started, and tap the bar in from the rear. To begin the rebuild process, press the shaft into the new bushing. His kit includes zinc liners and heavy clamps.

But the process is not that difficult. Next, remove the pin from the rag joint connecting the column to the steering box. You also can paint them with chrome paint, but the finish does not last as well as plating does.

Let it dry for several days and then spray with a matte-finish clear to seal the Cosmoline. That in itself could be one of the main reasons for the rarity of these cars. The finish of the upper control arm is natural on most applications with some painted semi-gloss black. This pair of disc brake assemblies has one good dust shield and one that is completely unusable. The actual components inside the brake drum are unique in color and appearance.

You can find inspection marks on the bar about 6 inches from the front of the bar.

If your drum does not have the extra-reinforced fins you probably have the smaller lowperformance brakes. You can upgrade the feel and response to a quicker and tighter response. After having the original calipers rebuilt, the bolts should be replated. Some of the play can be lessened, but you should have the unit completely rebuilt. This option can also be coded on your fender tag. You need a different master cylinder and distribution block. They were painted with Seymour’s Stainless Steel paint. Notice the gold Cosmoline finish up to the knuckle. Axles were pulled when the rear end was rebuilt. This is why it is so important to get the bars installed on the correct side of the car. The wheel cylinder had to be replaced because the original had too many rust pits in its bore. They differ in size and design of the head of the bolt. This is how the upper control arm bushing looks after being pressed in at the machine shop. This galvanized dust shield and original brake hose have been painted black.

SHARE THIS ARTICLE: Please feel free to share this article on Facebook, in Forums, or with any Clubs you participate in. Then coat them with clear to seal the black finish. They also offer leaf springs that have a long track record (quite literally) of significantly improving the road handling of Chrysler A-, B-, and E-Bodies, unlike a few coil over replacement kits that have garnered mixed results. On late-1970 cars an additional sleeve can be found on the bushing. Follow the directions on the solution bottle to create the original finish. When you do, be sure to fog the last coat. Clean, refinish, replate, and replace all of the components of the entire front suspension. I contacted them last year about that error but the guy I talked to didn't seem too interested. Install the lower strut rod and tighten the front nut. These front disc brake units in complete original condition are hard to find and expensive to rebuild.

Check the bore for pitting and ridges. Make sure you have the correct master cylinder for your year and model of car. Aftermarket companies such as Hotchkis Sport Suspension and QA1 offer direct-replacement items that include upper and lower control arms, adjustable shocks, high-quality struts, torsion bars, and sway bars.

Completely strip and paint the K-member. Tie-rod ends are Moog parts and are clear coated. Mopar torsion bars are preset at the factory in the direction of use. These reproduction splash shields are not galvanized like the originals, but they are painted black and will look original when mounted on the car. Upon reassembly of the steering linkage you can get the alignment somewhere in the ballpark so that you can get it to a good shop where you should have the car completely aligned before driving.

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